So what's actually in Nail Polish?

What's in your nail polish?

We know many of us don't think twice about our nail polish ingredients- after all, it does the job, right? But little do we realise that some nail varnish ingredients are suspect from a health point of view. It might be hard to believe but some ingredients found in our little bottle of wonder are actually causing concern because of their effects on our environment!

So you're probably wondering if there are safer ingredients for nail polish? And if so, what are they and where can you find these treasures? Candy Nails to the rescue! Let us begin by a little history lesson...

Nail polish has a long history, dating back to all of 5000 years! It was actually first developed by the Chinese who mainly used harmless (and interesting!) ingredients, including beeswax, egg white and vegetable dyes!

The Ancient Egyptians, on the other hand, used a blend of henna mixed with other natural products to paint their nails. We've all heard of henna hair dye, but who'd have thought that back in the days it was used as nail polish! Apparently only the highest ranking people (whoever they were!) were allowed to wear bright red nail polish and just as today you can tell a little bit about a person's social status by the badges they wear, or the clothes they don, back then it was all about the colour nail polish they were flaunting- crazy, huh??

Modern synthetic nail polishes found on shelves today are a relatively recent innovation. Nitrocellulose (or gun cotton) was developed in the nineteenth century. It is highly combustible and explosive but it creates films which can hold other substances in suspension. That's the main reason why it's the basis for most nail polishes and it also used to be the main element of cine film, used for projecting movies!

So which ingredients are a cause for concern? Let's talk you through the main ones:

The Solvents:

• Toluene: Solvents such as toluene and xylene are petroleum-based products that have been linked to cancer. According to Skindeep, the EWG analysts, there are seventeen separate health concerns relating to to toluene- that's an overwhelming (and indeed concerning) amount! Such concerns include risks regarding human reproduction and development, in terms of causing cancer and being damaging to our immune system. Toluene has also been classed as 'unsafe' by the International Fragrance Association, which is definitely a cause for concern.

• Formaldehyde: Also known as formalin, this may trigger allergic reactions in some people and is considered unsafe to use by those who suffer from asthma. It is a known 'carcinogen', meaning it causes cancer! The worrying thing is that it is still used in some nail polishes, though it is being replaced in most brands due to its health concerns.

• Other organic solvents: These include ethyl acetate and butyl acetate. Ethyl acetate is an irritant, while butyl acetate is actually considered toxic, as well as an irritant, and may cause respiratory problems- beware of this solvent!

So why use these solvents as part of a nail polish formula, I hear you ask. Well, the reason they're a part of the ingredients is due to the fact that they evaporate, thus in turn helping the nail polish to dry and harden.

Hardeners, plasticisers and resins:

There are many different nail polish ingredients that are part of the equation that makes hundreds of different products. The main plasticiser that causes concern is known as phthalate. Other resins and plasticisers used include castor oil, amyl and butyl stearate, as well as mixes of glycerol, fatty acids and acetic acids. These are all ingredients to watch out for. Phthalates are used to keep nail polish from chipping, since they have a plasticising effect on other ingredients.

Exposure to phthalates has actually been blamed for birth defects! The Department of Obstetrics and Gynecology, at the University of Rochester, USA, conducted experiments back in 2005 with the aim of proving that phthalates could affect the reproductive health of baby boys.

Dibutyl phthalate is the main phthalate found in nail polish and is often replaced with phthalic anhydride, which, unfortunately, also has health concerns associated with it according to the EWG.

However, the European Union has banned both phthalates and formaldehyde from use in cosmetics, including nail varnishes. In the US, though, the use of phthalates in nail polish is still common so be wary of that if you live in the US or are ordering products from there!

Other health concerns regarding phthalates is that these chemicals make the skin more penetrable. This makes the person using this ingredient more at risk from other solvents/chemicals which can easily get into the bloodstream.

One study by the Centre for Disease Control in Atlanta tested 289 adults for phthalates. Shockingly, every single person tested positive, with women of childbearing age being affected the most! The latter if not surprising considering it is most likely this age group that uses cosmetics such as nail polish in large quantities.

It should be noted, however, that cosmetics are just one way that phthalates can access our systems. They are used widely in many industries and can also be found in flooring, detergents and even worse- food packaging!

Phthalates have been used in the cosmetic industry for over fifty years which has prompted re-assessment of its 'dangers' and there is now speculation that its effects on health and the environment may have been overstated. It has been discovered though that dibutyl phthalate affects shellfish, among other fish, and can be a problem affecting water sources.

Colours and sheens:

Dyes and metallic sheens are ingredients that can also have health and environmental implications. There is a wide range of ingredients in use for this purpose (i.e. colouring) which even includes fish scales would you believe! This product, known as guanine, is cleaned and very finely ground and then held in suspension in the solvents, along with other nail polish ingredients. This helps to achieve the pearly effect that we oh-so-love!

Mica is a common ingredient which gives a lustrous sheen to our favourite nail polishes. It is a form of mineral silica, which is a natural form. While it is classified as toxic and considered a bio-accumulator (meaning it tends to accumulate in the bodies of mammals, including ourselves), it nonetheless only presents a low risk.

Are there any safer alternatives then? The answer to that is yes, of course! Products containing these safer ingredients can be found in many health food outlets, as well as other sources. Products that make for good examples, include: 'No Miss' nail polish and 'Sante' nail polish. Some of your favourite nail polish brands, such as Jessica Nail Polish and BUTTER London, are also jumping on the safer bandwagon by scrapping ingredients, such as phthalates, for example.

If you're unsure as to what nail polishes contain which ingredients then do have a look at the information given to you on the bottle. If you still have queries then why not consult a member of staff where you're purchasing the product or better still why not contact the brand in question itself? Pretty much all brands have a customer services hotline for this very purpose so don't be afraid to bother them with your important questions!